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Beaches in Japan have been eroding since the 1970's as a result of the artificial land alterations. Approximately 3000 fishing ports and 1000 commercial ports have been built nationwide, as well as 2532 large dams being constructed in the upstream basins of large rivers. Due to the port and dam developments, fluvial sand supply has significantly reduced resulting in shoreline recession around the river mouths. Continuous sand supply along the coastline has also been obstructed by the port breakwaters. The formation of wave shelter zone by the port breakwaters induce longshore sand transport...
Beach erosion --- Beaches --- Shore erosion --- Erosion --- Shore protection
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The authors have developed models for predicting beach changes applicable to various problems on real coasts. One of them is the contour-line-change model to predict long-term beach changes caused by the imbalance in longshore sand transport, which is a kind of N-line model. Because the calculation of the nearshore current is not needed in this model, and the computational load is small, it has an advantage in the prediction of long-term topographic changes on an extensive coast. However, the handling of boundary conditions becomes difficult when offshore coastal structures are constructed in a complicated manner, and in this regard the so-called 3D model has an advantage. Taking this point into account, the authors developed a morphodynamic model (BG model) by applying the concept of the equilibrium slope and the energetics approach, in which depth changes on 2D horizontal grids are calculated.
Oceanography. --- Sedimentation and deposition --- Mathematical models. --- Deposition and sedimentation --- Sedimentary processes --- Physical geology --- Oceanology --- Thalassography --- Earth sciences --- Marine sciences --- Life Sciences --- Earth Science --- Oceanography --- Environmental Sciences
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