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Betak : fashion show revolution.
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ISBN: 0714873535 9780714873534 Year: 2017 Publisher: London New York, NY Phaidon Press Limited Phaidon Press Inc.

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"The New York Times describes Alexandre de Betak as 'the Fellini of fashion and the Cecil B. DeMille of the runways'. For 25 years, Betak has produced many of the fashion world's most memorable shows and events for brands as diverse as Dior and Victoria's Secret. This stunning, lavishly produced volume celebrates his career via set and show photography, as well as hundreds of unpublished behind-the-scenes images. Structured thematically to bring readers inside Betak's creative process, the book provides unrivalled insight into how fashion becomes art as well as commerce"--Publisher's description.


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In the front row : how Australian fashion was launched onto the world stage
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ISBN: 0522867928 Year: 2015 Publisher: Carlton, Victoria, Australia : Melbourne University Publishing,

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Alexander McQueen
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ISBN: 9788862082952 Year: 2013 Publisher: Bologna, Italy : Damiani

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In 2008 Alexander McQueen commissioned photographer Nick Waplington to document the creation of his Fall 2009 collection--all the way from inception to runway showing. Unfortunately, it was to be the last Fall/Winter collection that McQueen would stage before his untimely death. This show, which he titled The Horn of Plenty, found McQueen revisiting his 15-year archive of work and recycling it into a new collection. In effect, it was his personal survey of his work to date. The set was composed of broken mirrors and a giant trash heap made up of all the sets from his previous shows; critics have commented that this reflected McQueen's feelings towards the fashion system and how it pressures designers to be creative geniuses while relegating each collection to the garbage bin of history as soon as it's sold. Waplington was given unprecedented access to McQueen and his staff, which included the current Creative Director of the brand, Sarah Burton. Every step of the creative process is documented in fascinating detail and readers receive a rare insight into the inner workings of McQueen's creative process. Most notably, McQueen himself placed the book's layout, picture by picture, on storyboards. The book was ready for publication when McQueen died, then was put on hold--until now. This substantial overview, with more than 120 photographs, is published just as McQueen edited it, commemorating the most personal of his collections.


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The fashion show goes live : exclusive and mediatized performance
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ISBN: 9781350226340 1350226343 9781350226357 1350226351 Year: 2022 Publisher: London: Bloomsbury Visual Arts,

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Beginning with Alexander McQueen's infamous attempt to live stream his 2009 Plato's Atlantis collection on SHOWStudio, this book traces how digital and social media have disrupted social structures within the field of fashion, and transformed the way it is communicated and consumed. Analysing key case studies, from Chanel, Givenchy, Yeezy and Opening Cermony to interactive social media and 'see now buy now' campaigns from Burberry, Topshop and Tommy Hilfiger, The Fashion Show Goes Live analyses the mode and impact of fashion shows' transmission. Through the rise of experimental film, fashion shows tailored for media transmission and the use of live streaming and social media to render shows 'immediate' to consumers, fashion weeks - and fashion shows - have become not just trend barometers but material sites that demonstrate media's effects. Rebecca Halliday evaluates the performativity of consumer relations to such live streams and other mediatized content. In linking these relations back to fashion show footage, she demonstrates that although intended to communicate fashion to mass audiences, these practices also promote it as exclusive and aspirational. Despite democratized, international access to content, the shows themselves remain elite events; kindling new forms of consumer attention, interaction, immaterial labour and desire. Through the microcosm of the fashion show, The Fashion Show Goes Live asks broader socio-political questions about the effects of the fashion industry's mediatization, challenging the notion that new technology has fostered inclusivity


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Martin Margiela (9/4/1615).
Authors: --- --- --- --- --- et al.
ISBN: 9069181800 Year: 1997 Publisher: Rotterdam : Museum Boijmans Van Beuningen,

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The mechanical smile : modernism and the first fashion shows in France and America, 1900-1929
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ISBN: 9780300189537 0300189532 Year: 2013 Publisher: New Haven (Conn.) : Yale university press,

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In the early 20th century, the desire to see clothing in motion flourished on both sides of the Atlantic: models tangoed, slithered, swaggered, and undulated before customers in couture houses and department stores. The Mechanical Smile traces the history of the earliest fashion shows in France and the United States from their origins in the 1880s to 1929, situating them in the context of modernism and the rationalization of the body. Fashion shows came into being concurrently with film, and this book explores the connections between fashion and early cinema, which arguably functioned as what Walter Benjamin called "new velocities"--Forces that altered the rhythms of modern life. Using significant new archival evidence, The Mechanical Smile shows how so-called "mannequin parades" employed the visual language of modernism to translate business and management methods into visual seduction. Caroline Evans, a leading fashion historian, argues for an expanded definition of modernism as both gestural and performative, drawing on literary and performance theory rather than relying on art and design history. The fashion show, Evans posits, is a singular nodal point where the disparate histories of commerce, modernism, gender, and the body converge.


Book
Fashion film : art and advertising in the digital age
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ISBN: 9780857857002 0857857002 9780857856661 0857856669 9781474285995 9781472519177 Year: 2018 Publisher: London ; New York : Bloomsbury Visual Arts,

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"The moving image has become a key marketing tool for luxury fashion, central in enabling brands to shape their visual codes and extend their brand awareness. Fashion Film is the first detailed study of the shifting shape of fashion imagery in the digital age, investigating the role of the moving image in the promotion, communication and spectacle of contemporary fashion. Combining interdisciplinary analysis of cinema and digital culture, this ground-breaking book traces the emergence of fashion film in the 21st century through its historical roots in pre-digital forms of photography, experimental cinema, mass-media advertising and documentary film-making, right up to today's visual spread of contemporary fashion on video blogs, online magazines and live-streamed catwalk shows. Examining collaborations between fashion designers and pioneering image-makers such as Guy Bourdin, Jean-Paul Goode, William Klein and Nick Knight, the book highlights the critical tension between the fashion film conceived as a creative endeavour and as commercial enterprise. Fashion Film also includes a parallel focus on factual representations of fashion through the recent rise of documentary fashion film that goes behind the scenes to follow the processes and personalities involved in making fashion. Accessible and well-illustrated, Fashion Film will appeal to students and scholars of fashion, film, media, photography, celebrity, sociology and cultural studies."--Bloomsbury Publishing.


Book
Showtime : le défilé de mode
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ISBN: 2879009413 Year: 2006 Publisher: Paris Paris-Musées

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Premier ouvrage entièrement consacré au défilé de mode, Showtime retrace l'histoire du défilé de la fin du XIXe siècle à nos jours à travers analyses, récits et témoignages abondamment illustrés. Comment le défilé fait-il image ? Représentations littéraires, iconographie des " marcheuses professionnelles " devenues top models, ou évolution du métier de photographe, l'image de défilé révèle progressivement ses enjeux stratégiques et économiques. A travers les voix croisées de témoins et acteurs du monde de la mode, d'archéologues du domaine contemporain, d'historiens et de chercheurs, une chronologie se dessine, rythmée par une iconographie qui en marque les temps forts. Enfin, l'étude de sujets inhérents ou annexes au défilé, comme le mannequin, le cinéma, le son, le carton d'invitation et la photographie, complète ce panorama. Historiens et chercheurs disposent désormais du recul nécessaire pour faire du défilé un sujet à part entière. Showtime leur ouvre le chemin.


Book
Histoire idéale de la mode contemporaine : les plus beaux défilés de 1971 à nos jours
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ISBN: 9782845973428 284597342X Year: 2009 Publisher: Paris : Textuel,

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Cette histoire idéale de la mode contemporaine présente les collections les plus magistrales ou expérimentales des quarante dernières années. Dans ce panorama chronologique défilent les années 1970 au croisement constant de l'innovation et de la citation qui voient naître le terme de créateur ; puis les années 1980 qui mettent "la mode à la mode". Le minimalisme des années 1990 annonce le siècle nouveau et le retour de l'ornement. Olivier Saillard a sélectionné cent vingt défilés dont l'inventivité et le style témoignent d'un travail d'auteur au détriment des logiques de marque qui régissent l'industrie de la mode. Par des notices précises et enlevées, il définit les lignes de force de quatre décennies au travers d'une cinquantaine de créateurs depuis la scandaleuse et déterminante collection de Yves Saint Laurent en 1971 jusqu'à Jean Paul Gaultier, Martin Margiela ou Nicolas Ghesquière pour Balenciaga. Un défilé des défilés aussi documenté qu'argumenté soutenu par une iconographie époustouflante. http://www.eyrolles.com/Loisirs/Livre/histoire-ideale-de-la-mode-contemporaine-9782845973428 (2/09/10)


Book
Ex limbo
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ISBN: 9788887029512 8887029512 Year: 2011 Publisher: Milan : Fondazione Prada,

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"Ex limbo [by the Belgian art collective Rotor] is an in-depth investigation of the scenographic elements that have been realized for the fashion show sets designed by [and for] Prada and Rem Koolhaas / OMA [for] over more than a decade. A curiosity for the signs of use left behind on materials, an interest in the conservation criteria used within the storage areas, as well as fascination with structures and objects that have been dissassembled and reorganized constitute the germ of the exhibition project."--P. [3].

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